Not only Santorini, Mykonos and Paros: if one also counts the uninhabited reefs, the Greek islands add up to almost 6,000. Of the inhabited ones, some are loved by visitors who take them by storm in summer and winter; others remain totally ignored, despite being as beautiful and picturesque as the more famous ones. And it is precisely in these less-touristy Greek islands and remote archipelagos that we recommend you dive this summer: not to crowd them and turn them around, but to give less glamorous beaches (and perfect for solo, couple and family trips) a chance to become your favourites.
Kaufonisia, in the smaller Cyclades, is one of the most evocative mysteries of the Greek islands. ©Carolyn Bain/Lonely Planet
Uncrowded Greek islands: no, they are not a mirage
This trip is up and down the Cyclades and the Peloponnese, from Crete to Corfu, from Paros to Santorini, but it is a tour in reverse: instead of stopping at the most popular Greek islands, it goes further and lands on the quietest beaches, where time has stood still and often the only inhabitants are shepherds and their animals. The loneliest Greek islands appeal to adventurous tourists but also to lovers of peace, especially during the crowded summer months. Some are a secret even for Greeks, so much so that even they often forego venturing to the most remote islands, leaving empty kilometres of beaches and crystal-clear sea ahead.
Have you ever thought of taking a trip to the Koufonisia archipelago or to Donousa, Ios, Kimolos or Ikaria? Probably not, but no harm done: there is always time to discover something new, and with the Greek islands, there is never a risk of getting bored.
Kato Koufonissi, the island of wonders
Spelled Kaufonisia, it reads: wonder of the Lesser Cyclades. Colouring this archipelago are the islands of Ano Koufonissi, Kato Koufonissi and Keros. The former is the most touristic: 300 people live there and Chora is its largest settlement. And while it is true that until the 1990s no one was familiar with this small island, today it is more crowded. That is why you should turn your attention to Kato Koufunissi: with its beaches (the most beautiful being Detos and Lachi) and its silence, if you are looking for peace, you will find it here.
The only person who lives in Kato is a shepherd: tourists come and go in a caique that docks there until late at night, to eat there is a fish tavern: stop. Is that enough for you? At Keros you will find the rest, plus a dip into the past because it is an important archaeological centre. No one has lived there since 1968, there are no tourist facilities and you cannot stay overnight: those who venture here have their own boat and a great desire to discover a little gem of the sea.
Donoussa
Without straying far from the Lesser Cyclades archipelago, take a trip to Donoussa east of Naxos. Here mythology has set a piece of the Theseus myth: among its rocks Dionysus hid Ariadne from the hero. Today, the myth still lives on in Stavros, the island's largest town, which lights up every mid-August for its patron saint's festival and during the annual Treasure Hunt that turns the island into a pirate's den.
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Kendros Beach in Donoussa, Lesser Cyclades. ©Carolyn Bain/Lonely Planet
Between ruins and caves (the most beautiful: Tichou and the Cave of the Seals on Moschonas Bay), on this island you can breathe sea life in the best possible way: without distractions. It is inhabited by 160 people who make their living mainly from fishing and who have invented a festival to welcome (the still) few visitors who come to the village: it is called the Feast of the Hotelier and is celebrated on 27 July, amidst typical dances and songs.
Khytira
Arriving in Khytira (Kythira in Italian) by boat is tricky, because you only leave by an eternal ferry from Athens; by air it is easier, so don't be discouraged and follow the Greeks, who love the authenticity and ruggedness of this island south of the Peloponnese, inhabited by fishermen and farmers throughout the year.
There are more than 40 villages in Kythira, where traditional Greek culture shines through. ©Region of Attica/Lonely Planet
In Kythira there is a mix of ancient and modern, design, luxury and rustic. The main village is Aroniadika and popular beaches such as Melidoni, Chalkos, the beautiful Firi Ammos and Kaladi , which makes visitors struggle with its 120 steps carved into the rock, make it one of the least touristy Greek islands most worth a visit.
Ios
Isolation can be unsettling and perhaps, on this tour of the least touristy and quietest Greek islands of all, it's time for a bit of a buzz. But always sparingly: to satisfy those looking for a bit of life but not giving up a relaxing holiday there is Ios, which between wonderful beaches (such as Manganari, to avoid the hubbub of its most famous one, Mylopotas) and nightlife balances both needs.
Ios is halfway between Naxos and Santorini and takes some of the glitter of its bigger sisters. But it remains unspoilt in some less-travelled areas, in some secret beaches, in the village of Chora with its blue and white houses. A good mix, for those who want both, but without overdoing it.
Kimolos
Beneath the waters of Ellinika beach at Kimolos in the Cyclades is an ancient sunken city, the ancient version of the island's first village devoured by the sea. With the right goggles and a good dose of breath, you can visit the ruins that can be seen at the water's edge: it is one of the island's most beautiful attractions along with its other pristine beaches such as Rema, Karas and Prassa.
Polyaigos
Between Milos and Kimonos is Polyaigos, the largest uninhabited island in the Aegean Sea and, of all islands, the wildest. Sheep graze peacefully on the island (hence its name, which means 'many sheep') and little else. For several decades, no one has lived there and it has become an ideal place for seals, which have found a perfect nesting place untouched by man. Getting there is easy from Kimolos, with taxis and private boats (or your own boat), and the tour from the sea is ideal for enjoying one of the most beautiful things about this place: its waters.
Ikaria
In the central eastern Aegean is Ikaria, the island that served as mythological tomb to Icarus after his mission to the sun. Its ancient history makes it one of the truest and most authentic of all Greek islands; its modern one, amidst proposals for secession and the desire to go it alone (in 1912 it proclaimed itself an independent state, a status that lasted five months), a curious place where the politics and ideas of its inhabitants can be glimpsed in the signs of the locals.
It is said of Ikaria that it is the island of eternal youth, because the average number of centenarians in this place immersed in the sea is very high. It is worth a trip there (by plane from Athens) to see for yourself the conditions in which the locals live and which have ensured their primacy. Or just to go to Therma or AgiosKirikos, some of the best-known spas in the Aegean.
Lichadonisia
In the Gulf of Euboea 7 small islands await the traveller who only wants peace. TheLichadonisia archipelago has nothing to envy the pearls of the Caribbean and are a perfect alternative for those seeking incredible sea and silence, not necessarily in that order. Of the seven islands that make up the archipelago, Manolia is the most 'equipped': not in the most touristy sense of the word, but it does have just one lido that welcomes the tourists who venture there.
There is nothing, except a lighthouse, on Megali Strongyli, which is the second largest island in the group. And getting there is an adventure: one leaves from the island of Euboea (from the port of Agios Georgios) or from Kamena Vourla, 150 kilometres from Athens.
Hydra
There are no cars in Hydra and if you want to get around, you do it on foot or by bike. The slow pace of life on this Greek island in the Argo-Saronic gulf has in past years tempted celebrities who have chosen it as a nest for their extra-luxury villas. It goes without saying that the rustic and simple atmosphere of the most genuine Greek islands here also gives way to a certain chic and elegant air that drives up accommodation prices in the summer months. So go there in spring: Vilchos beach, on the other hand, retains its ecstatic beauty even out of season
Between churches and Orthodox monasteries, the hinterland of Hydra also offers magic: as you walk along the mule tracks leading to your destination, you skirt the sea from above and dive into its carefree blue. The real treat are the coves of Bisti and Agios Nikolaos, which can only be reached from the water (via Hydra harbour): wild and calm as only life on the less touristy Greek islands can be, they are natural bays where there are never any waves. An ideal promise for those who expect extreme relaxation from a holiday and go to the most hidden Greece to conquer it.